With a top that is 2" thick, I doubt the support spine is really required. My argument for doing it is simple: It really doesn't take much extra time or material, and it ensures the table is stout.
My original plan was to cut out the wood for each slate square to make the chess board. I used a Forster bit to take out most of the wood, then chiseled out the corners. After cutting three of these holes, I realized I had the light and dark squares backwards for an official chess board - not smart...
Half of the challenge of woodworking is to figure out how to recover from mistakes. In this case, it was not too traumatic - I routed out the entire are for the board and "decided" to add light stone along with the darker slate.
Sometimes, mistakes turn out really good. After putting the lighter stone (travertine) with the slate, I am glad it ended up this way...
The top has been stained and sanded. Once the tile adhesive is set, I will apply a very thin amount of tan colored grout to fill the small cracks and gaps.
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